Showing posts with label easy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label easy. Show all posts

Thursday, September 17, 2015

Taraduff's 2015 CAL Sampler Afghan Square #17

Life has so much beauty, but sometimes things just don't go as expected.  Hard things happen.  I remember delivering my stillborn babies, trying to make sense of what had just happened.  I remember finally accepting the fact that my beautiful daughter had autism spectrum disorder and trying to sort out what that would mean for her and our future.   I remember when my mother died unexpectedly....   After each of those experiences, I just wasn't the same person as before.  I became someone new.  I remember a well-meaning relative asking when I was going to get back to my happy energetic self a month or two after burying our sweet Daisy.  I eventually found a new rhythm, a new 'normal' if you will.  I found ways to work through my emotions.  I can't go back to being who I was before, the person she wanted me to be just didn't exist anymore.

Without going into detail, I will say that this month has brought new trials for my little family.  We are still in the trenches of this one sorting it all out - doing our best to trust that all will be well when we come out the other end.  Sometimes things I find myself facing just don't make sense and I long to go back to who I was long ago.  I often listen to my favorite Miranda Lambert Song, 'The House That Built Me'.  This so eloquently captures how I, and I think all of us feel at times.



I know I started this post on a serious note.  I really do believe it's important to keep things real.  We often just see the idyllic photos and posts friends share on their facebook walls.  If you're like me, I have to remind myself not to compare - and to recognize that there are other things happening in those people's lives that are not being shared.  We all go through trials in one form or another.  It's just a part of the journey.  

Wherever you find yourself,  I wish for you to have support and love through whatever trial you might be facing.  Take time to do whatever makes you happy, whatever you do to take care of you!

Alright then, back to the regularly scheduled (albeit a few days late) post!

If you're just joining in, WELCOME!  Click on the following links to get caught up: Introduction, Square #1, Square #2, Square #3, Square #4, Square #5, Square #6, Square #7, Square #8, Square #9, and Square #10, #11, #12, #13, #14, & #15, #16  You can find links to all of them on pinterest here. And be sure to follow me on facebook and twitter to get updates when a new square pattern is posted.

Our first square for September is our solid square.  The stitch pattern incorporates an offset cluster stitch into a background of simple double crochet stitches.  The offset cluster is a new concept from other things we've done on this project.  The stitch is a pretty basic cluster stitch - but it is done by working around the post of the last double crochet stitch giving it a sideways look making it stand out from the more common cluster stitches.  The Deer Valley Cowl features this stitch pattern in a chunky yarn made with an extra large hook.
Deer Valley Cowl by taraduff 2015
Block #17

taraduff's 2015 CAL sampler afghan square #17 Offset Clusters

Block #17 Offset Clusters


offset cluster stitch: offset cluster: (Yo, insert hook around post of last dc worked, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook ) 5 times, Yo and draw through all 6 loops on hook.

Foundation ch and row 1:  Ch 27.  Dc in fourth ch from hook and in each ch across (25 dc)  Turn.
Row 2:  Ch 3 (counts as dc in this and all other rows).  Skip first stitch.  Dc in next stitch, ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch.  Work offset cluster.  *Ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch.  Work offset cluster.  Repeat from * across to last 3 stitches.  ch 1, skip next dc.  Dc in last dc, dc in top of beginning ch-3.  Turn
Row 3:  Ch 3.  Skip first stitch.  Dc in next stitch.  Dc in first ch-1 space.  Dc in top of offset cluster.  Dc in ch-1 space. *Dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-1 space.  Dc in top of offset luster, dc in next ch-1 space.    Repeat from * across to last 2 stitches.  Dc in last 2 stitches.  (25 dc) Turn.
Row 4-14: Repeat rows 2 and 3, ending with row 2.

taraduff's 2015 CAL sampler afghan square #17 Offset Clusters
So, tell me what you do to take care of you?  I sometimes forget how important taking care of myself really is.  I am working on doing better in that department :-)


Thursday, July 9, 2015

Taraduff's 2015 CAL Sampler Afghan Square #13

I hope July finds you healthy and happy!  June went by in a whirlwind for me.  I think I need more crocheting in my life.  It helps keep me grounded amidst the chaos that life brings.  I can sit down in a quiet place with some yarn and a hook and I have endless possibilities!  I think my daughter feels that way about her playdough.  Recently she has been going down to her playroom and making treasures out of her playdough literally all day long.  She is on the autism spectrum, and sometimes life is just too much for her.  Making things out of her playdough in a quiet, peaceful room seems to help her bring herself back into balance and to a place where she can once again come up and interact with us.  I get it.

If you're just joining in, WELCOME!  Click on the following links to get caught up: Introduction, Square #1, Square #2, Square #3, Square #4, Square #5, Square #6, Square #7, Square #8, Square #9, and Square #10, #11, #12.  You can find links to all of them on pinterest here. And be sure to follow me on facebook and twitter to get updates when a new square pattern is posted.

Our first square for July is our solid square.  The stitch pattern for this is a basic cluster stitch pattern.  It produces a fairly solid fabric - although it's not thick and sturdy like the waffle or basketweave stitch patterns done in previous blocks.  It has more drape and flexibility to it without the 'holey' look that is characteristic of some crochet stitch patterns.  I love how it turned out in this Felicity Headwrap.

Felicity Headwrap

Here's block #13.  Did you catch that number?  #13 out of 24.  You're more than halfway there now!

taraduff's 2015 CAL sampler afghan square #13 cluster stitch pattern

Block #13 Clusters

Special Stitch

cluster:  (Yo, insert hook in ch sp and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times.  Yo and pull through all 4 loops.

Pattern

Foundation Ch and Row 1:  Ch 30.  Sc in second ch from hook.  *Ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch.  Repeat from * to end of row.  Turn
Row 2:  Ch 3. Work cluster in next ch-1 sp.  *Ch 1, work cluster in next ch-1 sp.  Repeat from * to end of row.  Dc in last sc.  (14 clusters) Turn.
Row 3:  Ch 1, sc in first dc.  Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1.  repeat from * to end of row.  Sc in top of turning ch.
Rows 4-21:  Repeat rows 2 & 3.



taraduff's 2015 CAL sampler afghan square #13 cluster stitch pattern close-up



What things do you like to do to bring yourself back into balance?  Share in the comments!



taraduff Felicity Headwrap selfie

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Sampler Square #10

Hi friends!  It's been so wet and rainy here, holey moley!  We were taking flowers to my mother's grave yesterday (for 'Decoration Day' as she always referred to it) and drove through a crazy-sauce storm!  We were seriously worried our windshield might break!  My husband and I were disagreeing on whether it was sleet or hail.  The road was a slushy slippery slope in no time.  We were glad to get through it with our windshield still intact and find the sun shining at the cemetery!

Right, now onto business.  If you're just joining in, WELCOME!  Click on the following links to get caught up: Introduction, Square #1, Square #2, Square #3, Square #4, Square #5, Square #6, Square #7, Square #8, Square #9 You can find links to all of them on pinterest here.  

May's colorwork square uses a stitch that is commonly referred to as a moss, granite, or linen stitch.  If you search any of those terms on pinterest (include the word crochet too) you will find all sorts of beautiful crochet goodness that you can make using this stitch.  It uses single crochet and chain stitches to produce a relatively solid fabric that has much more stretch to it than you would have from a solid basic single crochet fabric.  I have made scarves with it with some fun colors.  My most recent project with this stitch was a rather large afghan.  I admit I had intended for it to be a smaller lapghan, but was in the car on a road trip when I started it and it somehow ended up queen size.  I do love how it turned out though.   It's called the Cambric Comforter.
 
Cambric Comforter moss, granite, linen stitch afghan

taraduff sampler afghan square #10

 Square #10


For this block, begin with color A.  Color changes occur at the end of each row.  The color pattern is A-B-C-A-B-C-A-B-C... etc.  When a color change is indicated simply switch to the next color in the pattern.  Do not cut the ends when changing colors.  The old color is simple dropped and the new color picked up.  Only fasten yarn off when the square is complete. 

Pattern

Foundation Chain: With color A, chain 34
Row 1:  Sc in second chain from hook.  *Chain one.  Skip next chain, sc in next ch.  Repeat from * for remainder of row, switching colors in last sc.  Ch 1, turn.
Row 2:  Sc in first sc.  Sc in next ch sp.  *Ch 1.  Sc in next ch sp.  Repeat from * until 1 stitch remains.  Sc in last stitch switching colors.  Ch 1, turn. 
Row 3:  Sc in first sc.  Ch 1.  *Skip next sc, sc in next ch sp. Repeat from * to last ch sp.  Ch 1.  Skip next sc, sc in last sc switching colors.  Ch 1, turn.
Rows 4-34:  Repeat rows 2 & 3, ending with row 2 and color A.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
close-up of crochet moss, granite, or linen stitch
You're all caught up on your squares right?  We now have 10 out of the 24 squares done.  We'll be finished in no time!

I shared my road trip afghan with you.  Do you craft while traveling?  I'd love to hear about what you do to keep yourself occupied while traveling! 

Saturday, April 25, 2015

Sampler Afghan Square #8

April.  This seemingly quiet month has been full of crazy here.  Taxes, crazy winter-like snowing and lawn mowing in the same week, sick kids....  The sun is out and it is beautiful today though!  Life is beautiful with all of it's ups and downs, it's crazy and calm, it's hots and colds.  Learning to enjoy the ride is still a work in progress for me.

If you're just joining in, WELCOME!  Click on the following links to get caught up: Introduction, Square #1, Square #2, Square #3, Square #4,Square #5, Square #6, Square #7.  You can find links to all of them on pinterest here.

Alright then, now it's time for April's colorwork square.  Square #8 uses a stitch I've heard called spike stitch or flame stitch.  This is a great stitch to know if you haven't done it before.  Made basically of single crochet stitches, it produces a sturdy, thick fabric.  Using highly contrasting colors it produces an exceptionally striking pattern, if you are into that kind of thing ;-)

Taraduff's crochet-a-long square #8

 Square #8

Special stitches:

Long Single Crochet (Lsc): Draw up a loop in designated stitch, draw loop up to top of row being worked, complete as a single crochet.

Pattern:

Foundation ch and row 1:  With A, ch 26.  Sc in second ch from hook and each remaining ch. (25 sc) Turn.
Row 2-4:  Ch 1.  Sc in each sc across. (At the end of row 4, switch to color C.)
Row 5:  With C, Ch 1.  Sc in first sc.  *Lsc in the next st 1 row below, lsc in the next st 2 rows below, lsc in next st 3 rows below, lsc in next st 4 rows below, lsc in next st 3 rows below, lsc in next st 2 rows below, lsc in next st one row below, sc in next sc.* Repeat this pattern to end of row. Turn.
Rows 6-9:  With C, repeat row 2.  (At the end of row 9, switch to color A)
Row 10:  With A, Ch 1, Lsc in the next st 4 rows below, *lsc in next st 3 rows below, lsc in next stitch 2 rows below, lsc in next stitch 1 row below, sc in next st, lsc in next st 1 row below, lsc in next st 2 rows below, lsc in next st 3 rows below, lsc in next st 4 rows below.* Repeat this pattern for remainder of row.  Turn.
Row 11:  Repeat row 2.
Rows 12-41:  Repeat rows 2-11 ending with row 2. 
Fasten off and weave in ends.
stitch close-up
I have used this pattern in a baby boy sweater once, in pale blue and chocolate brown with football buttons.  It was super cute, although I don't have a pic :-(  I also use it in my laptop sleeves.  I do have a pic of some of those :-)  And the pattern is available here.

Thanks for stopping by!  I hope your squares are coming along nicely.  Always feel free to contact me if you have any questions as you are working on your project.  

XOXO - Taralee

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Sampler Afghan Crochet-A-Long Square #4


If you are just joining us, welcome!  We're so glad to have you :-)  These links will get you up to speed on things: introduction, square #1, #2, #3.

Now for square #4!  This is our second square for February and is our colorwork square for the month.  This particular block is worked from corner to corner in a diagonal pattern.  The pattern is a basic double crochet stripe and uses increases and decreases at the beginnings and endings of the rows to achieve the correct shaping.  One thing to note with this pattern is with the color changes, please just drop the old yarn and pick up the new one when there is a color change.  Cutting the yarn is not necessary.  As you can see in the photo, you do end up with the loose yarns along the edge where you changed colors, but these will be hidden when the blocks are seamed together, so there's no need to fuss or do anything with them at this point.


Pattern

Special stitch instructions:  
Double crochet 2 together (dc2tog):  (Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops) two times.  Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.
  
Begin this square with B.  Work 2 rows with B, then work 2 rows with A.  Continue in this manner for entire square.  Do not cut the yarn when switching colors, just drop it and pick up the next color. 

Foundation chain: Ch 4 Row 1: Make 4 dc in beginning ch. (5 stitches) Ch 3, turn. 
Row 2: Make 2 dc in first dc.  Dc in each of next 3 dc.  Make 2 dc in top of turning chain.  (8 stitches) Ch 3, turn. 
Row 3: Make 2 dc in first dc. Dc in each remaining dc.  Make 2 dc in top of turning chain. (11 stitches) Ch 3, turn. 
Row 4-11: Repeat row 3.  (Stitch count will increase by 3 on each row)
Rows 12-21:  Skip first stitch.  (Dc2tog over next 2 stitches) twice.  Dc in each stitch on row. Leave top of ch 3 unworked.  Ch 3, turn.
Row 22:  Ch 3.  Dc3tog over next 3 stitches.  Fasten off and weave in ends.  

This particular stitch pattern is used in the unforgettable ponchette pattern available here.  In the ponchette below, a self-patterning yarn was used to create the striped look without the color changes.


Tuesday, November 18, 2014

Knit look tunisian crochet headband pattern


I've crocheted since I was small.  Not surprising that it has become one of my favorite past-times :-)  When I pick up yarn and a hook, I feel that the possibilities are endless.  If you're reading this, maybe you can relate!  I did often wonder about knitting though - when I'd see some 'yarny' thing that wasn't crocheted, I figured it was that 'knitting thing' that I didn't know how to do!  I did eventually teach myself to knit - but it took many years before I did.  I do love knitting too - but as a crocheter, I find it takes sooo long!  I still do it occasionally though.  Then I discovered tunisian crochet.  If you haven't tried it, I highly recommend trying it out.  It will add more possibilities to your crafting of yarny things ;-)  It also allows you to make things that look very much like they are knitted!  

I want to share a super simple pattern with you.  It would definitely help if you are familiar with tunisian crochet.  If you're not - there are loads of wonderful resources online you can find to quickly get you up to speed.  This particular pattern uses the tunisian knit stitch throughout.  Increases and decreases are used to achieve the shaping.  It fastens with a button at the back.  I used a fun handmade wood button for decoration on this one.  You can find the large buttons for sale here.  





Hook:  Size M13/9mm Tunisian style crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) If you have trouble finding the right size hook at your local yarn shop - they are  readily available to order online.

Gauge: 11 stitches x 12 rows in TKS (tunisian knit stitch) = 4 inches square

Yarn: 1 skein Lion Brand Yarns Heartland Thick & Quick  

Notions:  1- 1 1/2 inch size button for closure and  2 1/2 inch large button for decoration (if desired).

Finished size:  4 inches wide x 18 inches long (unstretched, not including button loop)

Note:  This pattern is easily adjusted for different sizes and different weights of yarn.  To make it longer or shorter, just increase the number of rows when you get to rows 8-42.   To make it wider or shorter, just increase or decrease the number of increase and decrease rows.

Special stitches:
TKS: (tunisian knit stitch): Insert hook in next stitch between the two vertical bars and under the horizontal bars, from front to back through the fabric. Yarn over and pull up a loop.

PATTERN

Foundation Chain:  Chain 5
*The rows are worked the same for all variations, only the number of stitches changes.

Row 1: (RS) Fwd pass: Pull up lp in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (5 loops on hook.)   Rtn: Yo, pull through 1 lp. *Yo, pull through 2 lps. Repeat from * for remainder of row.

Row 2: Fwd pass: TKS across. (5 loops on hook)  Rtn pass: Same as for row 1.

Row 3: (increase 2 stitches on this row).  TKS in first stitch.  *Insert hook in between stitch just worked and next stitch under the horizontal bar, from front to back through the fabric.  Yarn over and pull up a loop.  (Increase made)* TKS in next stitch. Repeat pattern between *’s to make one more increase. TKS for remainder of row. (7 loops on hook). Rtn pass: Same as for row 1.

Row 4:  Fwd pass:  TKS across.  (7 lps on hook).  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.  

Row 5:  (increase 2 stitches on this row) Fwd pass:    TKS in first two stitches.  Make increase using method established in row 2 (pattern between *’s).  TKS in next stitch.  Make another increase.  TKS for remainder of row.  (9 lps on hook).  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.

Row 6:  Fwd pass:  TKS across (9 lps on hook).  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.  

Row 7: (increase 2 stitches on this row) Fwd pass:  TKS in first three stitches.  Make increase.  TKS in next stitch.  Make in Increase.  TKS for remainder of row.  (11 lps on hook).  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.  

Rows 8-42:  Fwd pass:  TKS across (11 lps on hook).  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.

Row 43:  Fwd pass:  TKS in first 3 stitches.  Skip next stitch.  TKS in next stitch.  Skip next stitch.  TKS for remainder of row.  (9 lps on hook)  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.

Row 44:  Same as for row 6.

Row 45:  Fwd pass:  TKS in first 2 stitches.  Skip next stitch.  TKS in next stitch.  Skip next stitch.  TKS for remainder of row.  (7 lps on hook)  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.

Row 46:  Fwd pass:  Same as for row 4.

Row 47:  Fwd pass:  TKS in first stitch.  Skip next stitch.  TKS in next stitch.  Skip next stitch.  TKS for remainder of row.  (5 lps on hook)  Rtn pass:  Same as for row 1.

Row 48:  Same as for row 2.

Row 49:  (Bind off)  Begin as for TKS by inserting hook in next stitch between the two vertical bars and under the horizontal bars, from front to back through the fabric. Yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.  Bind off each stitch in this manner.  

Button loop:  Remove hook from loop and replace with a much smaller hook (I used an 8mm hook, but anything near that will work).  Chain 7.  Slip stitch to beginning bind-off stitch from row 49.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing:  Stitch a 1- 1 1/2 size button to the opposite end as button loop to fasten.  Be sure to try on the headband and place the button in the appropriate spot for it to have the desired fit.  If desired, stitch on large button for decoration in desired place.  A flower or other decoration may be used instead.  (Please note that I crocheted a cover to a button I had to use for the closure so it would match.   Any desired button can be used.)

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Crochet Bunny Costume Pattern

My 5 yr old decided he wanted to be a bunny this year.  I think he's figured out that he gets lots of votes at the annual family Halloween Party on the cuteness factor and he's trying to capitalize on it!  That, and he thinks that the neighbor's new bunny is pretty cool.

Anyway, I wasn't really excited to sew a big furry bunny suit.  I've sewed enough furry suits to really want to come up with an alternative that would still look good and be a bit original.  I came up with this version using a pair of gray sweatpants already in his wardrobe, a gray turtleneck I purchased at a local thrift shop for $3, 2 skeins of yarn, silver pipecleaners and one sheet of self-adhesive pink felt.


I wrote up the pattern as I went, hopefully it is pretty accurate.  If you have any questions about it, feel free to comment.  I will try to answer any questions or concerns you have!

This pattern is for a child size hat, mittens, 2 bunny ears, and one bushy tail.

Things you will need:  Grey pants and long sleeved shirt to fit child, 2 skeins worsted weight yarn in a gray to match the clothing (I used 2 skeins of lion brand jiffy yarn in silver heather), silver pipecleaners (I used 14), one sheet of pink self-adhesive felt, a size j and a size p hook, and one tapestry needle.

Gauge: with J hook and 1 strand, 4dc x rows = 1 1/2 ".  With P hook and two strands, 2 sc x 2 rows = 1".  The gauge is not super important.  You need to be in the ballpark for the hat and mittens to fit.  The tail doesn't matter, and the ears are somewhat forgiving where the pipecleaners are so flexible.

Notes:  within a row, if it says to repeat around, repeat the portion in between **.  Also, if it says to dc around, or sc around, it means to just make one row of dc or sc.


Hat:  Ch 3, sl st to 1st ch to join.  Row 1:  ch 3, 14 dc into foundation loop, sl st to top of ch 3 to join.  Row 2:  Ch 3, dc into top of ch 3, 2 dc in each dc around.  Sl st to top of ch 3 to join.  Row 3:  Ch 3, *dc in next 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat around then sl st to top of ch 3 to join.  (35 dc + ch3)  Row 4:  Ch 3, dc around, sl st to top of ch3.  Row 5:  ch 3, *dc in next 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc* repeat around ending with dc in last dc, sl st to join.  (41 dc + ch 3)  Row 6 - 13: ch 3, dc around, sl st to join.  fasten off and weave in ends.

Bunny Ears:  take 3 silver pipe cleaners and twist together into one long straight line.  Make 3 more of these.  Then take two of the groups of three and twist together at one end to form the top point of the ears.  Take the other ends and fold them in towards each other and twist together forming a bunny ear shape.  The end shape should measure approximately 2 inches across on the bottom and be about 10 inches in height.  Make one more of these so you have 2.  Use two strands of yarn together for this and use a larger size p hook.  Row 1:  Attach yarn to bottom corner of ear (pipecleaners) and sc 4 onto the bottom edge.  Row 2-3:  ch 1, turn.  Sc in each sc across.  Row 4-5: ch 1, turn.  Sc across row, increasing one sc (this means you need to make 2 sc in one of the sc on the row)  Row 6-8: Repeat row 2.  Row 9:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc across, decreasing one (this means you need to do one sc2together on this row).  Row 10-13:  Repeat row 2.  Row 14:  Repeat row 9.  Row 15-17:  Repeat row 2.  Row 18-19:  Repeat row 9.  Row 20:  Repeat row 2.  Row 21:  ch 1, turn.  Sc 2 together, fasten off.  (If you leave the tail of the yarn, you can crochet over it in the next step.)  Edging:  Using a J hook and one strand of yarn, sc around pipe cleaner and raw edge of crocheted ear.


 
Take the pink felt and cut out two ear shapes a bit smaller than the crocheted ears.  Remove the backing from the felt and stick to the ear.  To finish the hat, you will need to try it on the child who will be wearing it.  Mark where the ears will go.  Before sewing the ears on, bend the bottom straight edge and the sides of the ear so that it is curved in a bit around the pink felt.  Curving helps them to stand striaght.  Sew on the ears in the desired position.  I put mine close together and actually sewed them together on the bottom center edges as I was sewing it to the hat.  To give additional stability to the ears, I took 2 more pipecleaners, folded them in half and twisted them together.  Place these inside the hat under the ears.  Take the edges and fold them so they stick up through the hat behind the ears.  Bend the pipecleaner so the portion inside the hat remains flat against the head and the edges poke straight up behind the ears.  The ears should rest on the pipecleaner edges.  They may still flop around a bit.  If you wish them more stable, us more pipecleaners and you may stitch them in place.

Mittens:  Using a J hook and 1 strand of yarn beginning at cuff edge Row 1:  ch 6, sc in second ch from hook and each ch across.  (5sc)  Row 2-16:  Ch 1, turn.  sc across row in back loops only.  To join edges, ch 1, turn, and sc both short edges together.  Row 1 of body of mitten:  Ch 1, sc around the edge of the ribbing spreading 18 sc evenly.  Sl st to join.  Row 2:  Ch 3, dc in each sc around increasing 3 stitches.  Sl st to top of ch 3 to join.  Row 3-4:  ch 3, dc in each dc arount.  Sl st to top of ch 3 to join.  Row 5:  Ch 3, skip 4 dc.  Sl st to 5th dc, ch 3, dc in next dc and each dc around, dc in each ch and sl st to top of ch 3 to join.  (20 dc + ch3)  Row 6:  Ch 3, dc around, decreasing 3 stitches.  Sl st to join.  Row 7:  Ch 3, dc in each dc around.  Sl st to join.  Row 8:  repeat row 6.  Row 9:  Ch 3, dc around decreasing 5 stitches this row.  Sl st to join.  Row 10:  Ch 3, dc2tog around ending with one dc in last stitch.  Fasten off leaving enough to weave through the top of each stitch and pull tight and fasten.  Weave in end.  Thumb:  Attach yarn to thumb opening.  Ch3.  Make one row of dc (8dc), sl st to beg ch.  Row 2:  ch 3, make a row of dc decreasing 2.  Sl st to beg ch3.  Fasten off, leaving end long enough to weave through tops of stitches and pull tight and fasten.  Weave in end.  Make 2 of these.

Tail:  With 2 strands of yarn and P hook, ch 3.  Sl st to first ch.  *Ch 16, sl st to ch3 loop.*  Repeat this until the tail is as bushy as you like or until you run out of yarn.  I ran out of yarn.  To finish , sew the tail to the seat of the gray pants.  
Hoppy Halloween!!!